I could have hardly seen it coming. My previous encounter with pupusas, at a Salvadorean restaurant in Washington D.C., had been unnerving, with my palate disturbed by the pungency of the cheese and the soggy texture of the masa dough.
As a result I stayed away from Pupusas on subsequent visits to Salvadorean eateries (even ones with names like "Sarita's Pupuseria").
Tonight, however, with my stomach rumbling on my ride home from the office (I had a long day), I decided to make a pit stop at Atlacatl, a Goldster-approved Salvadorean joint that lay a block from where I have to transfer (on my journey between work and home) from the Red Line to the 14 Bus. Before I entered, I perused the online reviews to find out exactly what I should order and lo and behold, almost everyone (Gold included) mentioned the Pupusa...
"When you're in Rome, do as the Romans do." With this adage in the back of my head as I read through the menu, I took the bold step of ordering one Pupusa de Frijol . I also ordered a platter of Plaintains con Crema (Plaintains with refried beans and sour cream) and a side of rice, as security for the stomach should the pupusa turn out for the worst.
First came the rice and Plaintains with Cream. The Plaintains were saccharine, starchy with a slight exterior crispness from the frying, just like good Plaintains should be. The refried beans (that come with the plaintains) were a bit dry on their own, but I remedied this by mixing them with the tangy crema.
I had expected the side of rice--which cost only $1.75-- to come plain or have just a dash of seasoning (like Spanish Rice). But instead the restaurant serves it mixed (and presumably fried) with veggies. The flavor, hinting of onion and butter, hit the spot.
Finally, the waiter slapped down a decently-sized pupusa.
I first felt the disk with my hands: it was warm and crisp, rather than soggy.
Encouraged, I took a bite.
The Masa layer--firm but not thick--melted in my mouth, but the filling of beans stole the show. Earthy, salty and slightly umami the beans satisfied my tastebuds and stomach and accentuated the hearty indulgence of the warm masa (especially when dipped in the bean-cream mixture).
Rice and Plaintain con Crema at Atlacatl. Unfortunately, the author fell so madly in love with the Pupusa that he devoured her before he got the chance to snap a photo. A photo of a pupusa may appear on this page in the near future.
Other reviewers heap praise on Atlacatl's Revuelta or Queso y Frijol Pupusas but the beans need no cheese. I'm sure Atlacatl makes better Revuelta or con Queso varieties than I ate in my previous experiences anyway, but given that the Cotija-type cheese standard in Mexican and Central American cooking is a bit sharp for me, I suspect that incorporating cheese would temper the experience from my perspective.
Either way, I now know that I enjoy Pupusas when they are done right, and that Atlacatl has some superb cooks.
I will return.
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